Niniltna

Six years ago I did my first driving trip to Alaska, and enjoyed it so much that I knew I wanted to go back again. One of the reasons was that I didn't really get to do everything I wanted to do.  There is a very small town in the middle of nowhere, at the end of a 60 mile gravel road, that I wanted to see. It's called McCarthy, and it is the location of the fictional town of Niniltna that is the home of the heroine of my favorite mystery book series by Dana Stabenow. It was NOT recommended to drive a car there without a lot of precautions that I was unable to meet, and for that reason I didn't go (although I was tempted). I hadn't seen any information about other ways to get there until after I got home and was surfing the net about it. When I found that there was a shuttle that would pick me up in Glennallen early in the morning, drive me to McCarthy, and then take me back to Glennallen that night, I started planning this trip. 

There were 12 of us plus a driver in a big van, and it took us about 4 hours from Glennallen to McCarthy. Some of the sights along the way that are described in the books I thought were just imaginary, but the main one wasn't.  It's the huge wooden bridge, one lane wide, very low guardrails (although those are a little higher now) and 300 feet over a raging river. The van stopped for a break at this bridge so we could all get out and take pictures and, if we wanted to, walk across it.  I was sure that I wouldn't be able to walk across with my fear of heights, but when I decided to turn back, I looked to where I had come from, and I was already  more than halfway across!  So I just continued.  It was scary, but I had those other 11 people there for company and that helped. 

Kuskulana Bridge

River running 300 feet below the bridge. 

The rest of the road was not really how I had imagined – it was small alder forests, about 10-12 feet high coming right up to the edge of the roadbed so that all you could see was the thicket of trees.  I had imagined it being a bit more open, but that's what happens when you see the real thing – it spoils what you had imagined.  (This is why I often don't want to see movies after I have read the book.) 

McCarthy was a good-time town for the Kennicott copper mine just 5 miles up the road. There were a couple of bars, some shops, and a restaurant.  Lots of dogs roamed the street (there was only one street, and it was dirt) and the people were really friendly. After lunch, another shuttle took us up to the abandoned mine that is now being restored by the National Park Service. It's in the Wrangell/St. Elias National Park, and I was able to get another stamp in my National Parks Passport!  

Main Street, McCarthy

The mine was built on a hillside, and all the tailings were dumped down the hill. There are beautiful mountains all around, still with snow on them, and a glacier feeding into a river at the bottom of the valley. The day was sunny, although the smoke from the fires did obscure some of the view. It was fun visualizing where the imaginary Kate Shugak had some of her adventures. 

The main mine building was built on four levels, and just seems to flow down the hillside. It's not restored yet, although one of the local tour companies will take you through it for a price!  I just did my own walking tour, going through the buildings that were open and imagining how it must have been back in the 1920's and 30's when the mine was at it's height.

Kennicott Mine

We stopped at another wooden trestle bridge on the way back, but I was stuck in the back of the van and was too tired to get out to take photos. Luckily, one of the other passengers was very happy to take them for me, so thank you Clint! This bridge is no longer in use, but it provides a fascinating example of early engineering and building using what was available in the area. 

Bridge over the Gilahina River

I'm glad I got to see it, finally.  It was worth the wait!